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Thank you well illustrated on the subject.

Viva Czechia

This was fantastic

My back is twinging just watching this video.... 😮😮

This reflects the salty conditions it was used in and the poor anodisation / surface treatment of the stock rim and spokes. That corrosion could have been even more widespread if in a tubed configuration. I would suggest a good set of Excel rims would be the best solution here, and reapply a new Outex kit. I am not a metalurgist but I suspect stainless spoke nipples might help as well. Something I haven't tried myself yet is to use an anode to balance the wheels rather than lead or brass weights. I might try this to see if it helps.

Engaging the front brake with the bike on its side will most likely introduce air into the brake line.

Wasn’t installed correctly. If the nipples are not grinded, it creates an air pocket that keeps heating up, expand and progressively weaken the outex. The small patches wouldn’t have helped because of the nipple bulge, which is close to the rim edge. If the nipples are flush with the wheel, the patches, then the outex would have held

You have offered quite the practical perspective. I’ve always thought that the Reckless 80 didn’t do much to lessen the weight and you just confirmed my thoughts. But, the points you made about the hassle of loading those dry bags into the holsters is eye opening and makes a lot of sense. I have a set of X Country panniers that the Rolling Hobo used, they’re from Poland and I like them a lot but the opening could be just a bit bigger. I also have a set of Enduristan Blizzard panniers that are also great but the only issue with the set that I have is I bought the medium instead of the large or extra large that they sell. The Blizzards fit tight to the bike and they don’t flop around. But, without a doubt the best bags that I’ve ever owned are the first gen Magadan panniers from Adventure Spec. The Magadan’s are tough as nails, have dry bag inserts with wide openings for accessibility, two external pockets front & back, and the best thing that I like about them is they are lockable with the use of Steel Core straps. I can’t tell how much piece of mind it is to get off of the bike in strange place when you need to run into a shop or stop for lunch somewhere and know that your soft luggage is locked up. That’s not to say that someone with bad intentions couldn’t cut through the bags if left unattended for some period of time but, you get my point. The Magadan’s do require a rack, though. ✌🏾

Was it installed correctly?

After a longer trip to Nordkap with Rack-mounted Kriega-bags on my Ténéré 700, I found the rack solution to be too wide, sold it and bought the Reckless 80. Tried it for a 2 day camping trip - only to find out that it is not made for long distance travel - the bags don't slide in as shown in the merch videos (when fully packed, even empty its difficult), which is my greatest complaint - other than than, 1001 straps to tighten. Still want to stay reckless, but the reckless 80 is up for sale. Great review!

Hey! Did they take your voucher or they just looked at it and gave it back to you? Or did they like studied it alot?

So. I made a classic failure and knowing what I know now, it will not happen again. But, I checked and then removed the exhaust shims. The left side first which was a bit difficult and I was worried about losing a shim but more because how strong the magnet was. To make it easier to remove the right side i thought it best to turn the crankshaft a bit as I did it, the two other exhaust shims went flying. One landed a full 3 feet away and the other, well that is the issue. I cannot find it. I had a full garbage bag full of stuff and emptied it but no luck. I drained the oil and filter. So, I got an endoscope (good camera) and can look around every where. Of course now I can see if you leave the plugs in and cover the cam chain area you can probably get a dropped shim easily but the cam chain area is a different story. So I used the scope and magnet all over the valve cover area and nothing. And the same for the cam chain area. Nothing. I have tried a vacuum and a compressor to blow but no luck. I removed the clutch cover and endoscoped and magnet through there and no luck. leaned the bike way over and did the same with compressor but nothing. I have turned the bike engine over with the rear wheel (with the plugs out) and everything spins and no binding. Drained the oil... SO. I don't think I am going to drain rad fluid and turn bike upside down securing it from above. I am at the point now where I am going to pour some oil down from the top, maybe spray it with a small pressure bottle. It seems to me I can see just about everywhere it could be except behind the camshaft bottom sprocket that I am very reluctant to remove. I am thinking the next steps, after flushing with some lightweight oil, will be to re-assemble turn over and start and then slowly go through the gears. I have probably looked for about 6 hours just at the valve cover area and clutch, with about 6 hours searching and cleaning the garage. Probably, just looking for some sympathy. ps. This is a great video. .

I know it have been couple years since this posting. But, I had some questions. The Outex instructions seems to state Do Not overlap either tape layers. Cut a 30-40 mm. splice for the joints where both ends of the tape meet flush. So do I have it correct and does is matter which way ( direction ) you apply the tapes to wheel?

Thank you for the information, this was very helpful

Дякую Вам!

Mmmmm - this has got me thinking. I've been using tubeless on my mountain bikes for years and always wondered why motorbike tyres couldn't be run the same way. Many on MTBs just use gorilla tape instead of the expensive specific sealant tape they sell in bike shops. But MTBs don't have the same stresses and strains of a motorbike I guess. So I like the idea of the 3M tape but then why not put a layer of gorilla tape over that to protect the 3M tape? Also why not put some sealant in the tyre like Muck-Off Tubeless Sealant? That would if needed work its way into the spoke holes and seal the rim better. You also obviously have a puncture sealant solution in the tyre as well to potentially seal a puncture on the road. The issue for me is getting the tyre off on the trail. if you tear the tyre or has a hole that can't be plugged then you have to put an inner tube in. But TL tyres can be impossible to get off the rim, especially if you ride alone and can't use someone's side stand to break the seal. Finally long videos are good if it gives you useful info - short videos that lack detail are pointless! So many thanks. regards, Mike

Spend the damn money and get the Tubliss v2 , not only gives you tubless rims but also gives you a run flat alternative if you cant plug your tire right away with 100psi high pressure tube. No damage to rim or tire if you get a flat.

Always wear sandals with your 550# top heavy bikes..mmkay ?

I guess the scotts one is way bether then this one just beecose of the installation process

First off, the Outex instructions call for grinding down the factory nipples which he didn't do. Second we have no idea how well he prepped the surface pf the rim prior to application. Since he didn't grind the spokes I have to assume that he didn't properly prep the rim either!

So if you're concerned with damaging the 3M tape you could clean the factory rubber rim strip and stretch it over the tape before installing the tire...

What about 2 Layers of tape? First, with drilled holes at the nipples and the second as a total as it is? The first layer with the holes, would compensate the hight of the nipples

Thanks for this series of videos on the T7, they are really useful and well thought out.

Thinking about getting Tenere for my first bike but I'm the opposite - normal height but too skinny -183cm 65kg. Any chance I'd manage to pick it up at least few times in mud? Sadly I don't know anyone with such a tall bike to try myself.

Where did you get the tenere 700 sweatshirt?!😮

Excellent review. Thank you.

Durability in crashes=moskomoto, ease of removal or locking=moskomoto back country.

great advice Guys, maybe I will go with the heavier bike now..

The high front / low back combination - I see that on a T700 and it just smacks of being a styling thing and nothing more, which is fair enough if you’re honest about why you’re doing it, but the reality is that it’s the worst of both worlds. The back will clog. The front will cause the front to feel weird at speed (it sure always did on my enduro bikes at speed) as it flaps around. Go one or the other.

Just got Bartubeless done on my bike, can't wait to try it out

After 2 years, would you still use this or go back to the outex?

Look like a nice choice of upgrades

what tubes do you use?

Use a piece of flat wood and a hammer is a very common way of fixing the bent rim. I have done this. A lotof motocross shops use black Heavy Duty Gorilla tape in 2 wraps around the rim covering the spokes ends. I have a KTM offroad bike and I discovered the rim tape from the factory 100% missed covering 10 spokes completely. So I replaced it and installed some correctly. Going to inspect the rear wheel soon. Some riders will split the original tube length wise and install it inside between the rim and the new tube for a rear tire. Do not know if can be done for a front tire.

HA HA very interesting.......i would propably trade it for a new one.

Great Video! TY

For your consideration. A different way to pick up a heavier bike. ruclips.net/video/BNDkyZHfFS4/видео.html&pp=ygUzYmUgdGhlIGJvc3Mgb2YgeW91ciBtb3RvcmN5Y2xlIHBpY2tpbmcgdXAgeW91ciBiaWtl

Hi, so basically, Acerbis all the way or balls cause the oem one is the worst of both combo. Thanks bro

wolfman

I start to have the same problem on my cb500x, and I belive that starts when I install the hand guard protection (SW-Motec/ barkbusters). The right protector is slightly up due to the brake hoses is on the way, and belive the airflow geometry is not the same from right side and left side. I didn’t find time to try adjusting the left side to be on the same hight level as the right side, but will follow up with info when checking this theory of mine.

Note that all 2022+ T7s use a different (Euro 5) cable that has 6 pins instead of 4.

You still using this battery? Update video would be sick!

Sorry if you have been asked this question before. You mention that 3M has tape for sealing nipple ends….its just not cut into circles. Do you know the tape type or number? Also if one were to cut circles…what would be the proper diameter?

I own the Reckless 80 setup. I totally agree with your observations. However, where I am not aligned is that I'm not climbing in and out of my panniers throughout the day. I load them in the morning and don't go into them until the next camp spot. That's because I'm riding throughout the day. I use the top bag for the items that I want to access during the day of riding, such as gloves, warm layers, some snacks, etc. I find that the Reckless system forces me to bring what I need, versus that and more. I just traveled for 5 days on the AZ/UT BDR. I wasn't lacking anything: Tent, 2 down sleeping bags, sleeping pad, rain gear, clothing (layers), personal cleaning supplies, water filter, thermos for cold water, camp chair, stove. Some of the comments raise questions about the weight of the system. As someone who sews, I can say that the quality of the Mosko products is exceptional. As someone who drops his bike from time to time, I can say from personal experience that the stuff holds up to all sorts of abuse. It is so rare to find products made to that standard these days. We definitely shouldn't criticize the product for being capable of standing up to adventure riding. And...I'm certain that our bikes don't care whether it weighs 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 pounds more than the competition. If my riding ability comes down to that level of detail, I won't need to concern myself with that level of detail. As far as strapping hassles is concerned, the Mosko Moto Gnoblin makes attaching and unattaching a breeze. As far as loading the dry bag into the "holster/pannier" is concerned. It's really no big deal. It's sort of a square peg round hole / 10 pounds of sh_t in a 5 pound bag issue. You figure out how to do it very quickly. Finally, it's nice to have one less thing (racking structure) to get bent/damaged during my outings. Thank you again for starting this conversation. It's a large financial outlay, so getting what you want the first time is something that you want to get right.

Can you say which Scorpion lends itself best to this great solution? Cheers

Ahoj, máš i nějaké zkušenosti s Držákem 2.0 ? Dokázal bys je porovnat?

Ain't the point of Reckless is to not have any rack and that's where the weight saving is?

Holy crap, how did you get that one at 1:38 out of there? Also what front tire is this, mitas e10? cheers!😎

I ran 3m tape, followed by muckoff MTB tubeless tape as a protective layer. 3+ years, no problem. I redid it completely after 3 yrs to see how it was holding up and that 3m tape was still like new and very difficult to remove

Best video